A windy, wild and wonderful week in the north west (part one)

Dave and I made a plan a few months ago to escape to the north west of Scotland after the referendum. Having become more politically engaged than ever before in the last year or so, the build up to the 18th of September was intense. It consumed our lives - there hasn't been a single day of this year that we haven't discussed the vote in some way or another. It has been exciting, engaging, interesting, infuriating, anxiety-provoking, enlightening, stressful and full on.

We were so hopeful, so so hopeful, yet fear won out. As I sat on my sofa through the wee small hours of the 19th of September I felt crushed and sick and scared. After a couple of hours sleep when the result was in no doubt, the rest of the day was spent in a state of shock, anger and emotion. We felt like we were grieving. Although we'd planned to go north that day, we couldn't face it. We could barely lift ourselves to leave the house, and weren't even interested in food or drink. It was a very dark day indeed, as I'm sure it was for the 1.6 million people who also voted yes.

Bizarrely, after a better sleep that Friday night, we awoke on Saturday morning feeling much more positive. And it seems the whole of the Yes movement was experiencing the same. It was fascinating to follow on social media, and to see people re-engaging and directing their passion to what comes next. Momentum like that doesn't just go away, as the massively increased membership of the SNP has proven.

This blog post is not about politics, or the referendum (honest!). But our holiday would not be in context without explaining a bit about our 19th and 20th of September 2014. On the Friday I was ready to reject politics forever, wishing I hadn't been engaged or enlightened. By the Saturday I was more fired up than ever to stay involved, and this continues today. I have faith in my fellow countrymen and women to continue the momentum and one day to achieve what so many people set out to do. I do feel very proud to be one of them. 2014 has certainly been interesting and very informative!

And full of change. The reason this post has been slightly delayed is that since returning from holiday I have not felt quite right; very uncomfortable in my own skin (much more so than usual!). But I am gaining clarity as each day goes by, and although there are some big changes in my life to come, I am looking forward to new challenges and new adventures.

Speaking of adventures. Dave and I left our wee Borders village late on Saturday morning, in my Uncle's 22 year old camper-van. What a way to travel!

We felt very uncomfortable about holding up traffic on our way north (not intentionally!), especially given our jobs as driver guides and the many hours we have spent berating slow motorhomes! However we soon got into the swing of it, learning to accept that there was only so fast we could go, and remembering to wave at all the other camper-vans we passed!

 We stopped at Glencoe for a wee walk and fresh air.

 

 

Although we had both stopped in this lay-by many a time (albeit better parked), it was the first time I had actually been down to explore the waterfall. Sadly we picked up a LOT of litter (as much as we could), which is really sad to see. But Glencoe is just one of those places isn't it - a special, powerful place that takes hold of you.

From there we continued further north, the weather getting better as we went, and our spirits lifting all the time.

We decided to make our way to Gairlochy, to meet a tour guide friend and pitch outside his bunkhouse. Before we did so, we headed west to Mallaig for fish and chips, and an amazing sunset over Rum and Eigg.

 

 

I'm not sure I could describe our first night in the camper-van (we should have given it a name - we floated 'Betsy' early on but it didn't stick - sure my Uncle would've loved it though!) as all that comfortable, but waking up the next morning to this view over Loch Lochy wasn't tae bad.

One of the best things we discovered about this type of holiday (which was totally new to us!) was the freedom to go where you felt like each day. I am such a mad planner that I like to know what each day will bring - unfortunately this means I am not so good at living in the moment as I am always thinking about what comes next. For the first time in a looooong time, I got close to relaxing and just going with the flow. (I say close because I am a very nervous passenger regardless of who is driving me, so I couldn't fully relax!!).

We knew we wanted to explore Torridon as it is not an area I know at all, so we got on the road and made our way down Glen Shiel (one of my all time favourite drives, passenger or driver!).

It was very exciting for me to be heading somewhere new. It was a hazy day, but still very nice.

Hazy Lochcarron

Shieldaig

 

 

Drive through Torridon

First cup of tea stop

The biggest road sign I have ever seen

It truly was a stunning day, and I felt blessed to be in one of the most beautiful parts of the country on a day like this. Dave and I took our time (well, we had no choice - a combination of "interesting" roads and no power steering!) and stopped when we wanted. We made our first cup of tea in the van and marvelled at our surroundings, and how lucky we were. It was the 21st of September, and our moods were lifting like the haze.

We continued to Poolewe, deciding to pitch there for the night. It was an interesting experience - we brought the average age of the campsite (all large motorhomes) down quite considerably, and after enjoying a lovely walk to take in the sunset and the local area, we walked back through the campsite wondering why everyone else was safely tucked up inside watching their TVs. A home away from home I suppose!

On our walk we met a very friendly cat, who proceeded to follow us along the beach. It was wonderful!

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped at a bridge and decided to play a game of pooh-sticks. Shortly after dropping our sticks into the water, an otter popped its head up and gave us a look - it was the first otter I have ever seen and it couldn't have picked a better moment or day to do it! We then watched as it taught its baby how to fish - very difficult to photograph in such dark water, but hopefully you see them on the right of this photo, against the bridge. What a moment!

After all that excitement, it was surely time to retire to our own camper-van and toast the day with a glass of red. A successful first full day on the road!

We were keen to get on the move reasonably early the next day (especially after being hounded for payment by the campsite owner - must have thought us young ruffians wouldn't cough up!) so after a delicious breakfast of fried egg pieces, we were off.

Our first stop of the day was Gruinard Bay (unintentional rhyme). Give me any beach, anywhere, and I am happy! But give me stunning beaches like the ones in the North West and 'happy' doesn't even begin to describe it! This was our first of many.

Dave spotted a plastic bucket that had washed up onto the rocks, and although he originally intended to dispose of it in a more suitable place, it ended up becoming our "foraging bucket". For the first time in my life, I picked mussels to eat for dinner - a simple thing, yet it made me very happy!

 

 The results of our foraging day, including brambles we had picked in the morning:

We continued our adventure with a drive round to Ullapool; a beautiful drive. After collecting a few non-foragable (possibly just made that word up) items such as bread and wine, we stopped again at the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, and enjoyed a nice walk. The weather had changed dramatically since the day before; it now being dreich and drizzly.

 

 

Camper-van and Calda House

It wasn't the day to spend a long time outside, so we made our way towards Lochinver. Although we had well and truly stocked up on provisions by this point, I'd been advised not to miss out on the pie shop in Lochinver. Actually, we left with 6 pies, which would provide us with a number of excellent lunches in the days to come!

From Lochinver we took a mad drive down the coast towards Achiltilbuie. Dave did amazingly well (I'd expect no less from a professional driver!), manoeuvring tight bends and a very narrow road. It was hair-raising, and not relaxing. 

We weren't in a great frame of mind when we reached Achiltilbuie, having spent a nerve-wracking hour in the van, hungry, tired and wanting to reach our destination. Although that was the next problem - we didn't really have a plan for our destination. The weather was foul and we were getting grumpy with each other. 

Then we spotted a magic sign. It said "campsite: 3 miles" - a simple sentiment but it filled us with such joy!

And we really struck gold with this campsite. Definitely my favourite of the week, Port a Bhaigh, near Polbain. The facilities were great, and the views out to the Summer Isles were tremendous. There was even a pub nearby, although we didn't make it for a pint in the end. Our mussels and wine were all we needed.

 

Rustic!

 

I was really hoping the next day (I lost track of the days - Tuesday by this point I think?!) would bring a slight improvement in the weather, as we intended to attempt Stac Pollaidh. Thankfully it did, although the forecast was for the weather to get worse in the afternoon.

It was no surprise then that the campsite was mostly deserted by 10am, as everyone scrambled off to make the most of the day. We took the morning at a slightly more leisurely pace.

Having arrived in Polbain in clag and mist the day before, it was wonderful to actually see our surroundings in the light of the next morning. Truly a fantastic drive over towards Stac Pollaidh.

 

 

 

 

 

And it is at the bottom of Stac Pollaidh that I will leave you, for now, dear reader. I realised when I started this blog post (a few days ago) that there's far too much to write about in one post. So I'll save the story of our scramble up Stac Pollaidh for the next post (also to include a windy walk to the Old Man of Stoer, sunbathing on Achmelvich beach, a three-pan meal in the van, stunning Sandwood Bay, and a rocking night in Durness).

Stay tuned! Right now I'm off to Perthshire for a relaxing couple of days away amidst the craziness of the last few weeks. Hopefully Part Two of our North West adventure will follow very soon!