March: Mud and Miles on the St Cuthbert's Way

When Dave and I moved to the Borders we were very excited about living so close to hills, countryside, paths, fresh air, hills, hills and hills. I then got very frustrated that the days were dark, short and wet.

Joyfully we survived the winter and emerged on the other side yesterday. Okay okay so maybe spring isn't quite upon us yet, but it really felt like winter had come to end this week.

And it is amazing how much your mood improves as the days get longer and signs of spring start to appear. Winter really can be such a grind, and as such it feels like an achievement to get to the end of it!

The last week of winter (in my book anyway) was a good one. I took a trip to Invermoriston to represent Absolute Escapes at the Great Glen Way business workshop, and thoroughly enjoyed being back on that open road. The weather was atrocious, but it was atmospheric...a word that covers all manner of weather sins in Scotland :)

 

 

 

 

 

By midweek it was already a great week. I'd hatched a plan for a good walk at the weekend too, and was really hoping the weather would behave to allow it to happen.

I've been thinking long and hard about my next long-distance trail, as I'd like to complete at least one in 2014. I've been thinking about the St Cuthbert's Way since mid last year - a short route starting in the Scottish Borders and ending on Holy Island. A route packed full of historical context; walking in the footsteps of St Cuthbert, the Romans, and doubtlessly many many others. I've never been to Lindisfarne but I can only imagine it would make an amazing end to a fantastic trail.

I wanted to complete the St Cuthbert's Way in its entirety rather than day walks. However having thought more about it, with Melrose on our doorstep it did make sense to take on the route in bits.

I targeted the first day of March for the first stage of the St Cuthbert's Way, a 16.5 mile walk from Melrose to Harestanes, near Jedburgh.

Dave and I set off from Melrose just after 11am yesterday - I was delighted that March 1st brought sunshine, a slight breeze and a wee chill in the air.

I knew the first bit of the route out of Melrose was an uphill stretch, to the col between Eildon North and Eildon Mid Hill. I wasn't prepared for how much I'd struggle with this uphill! The 133 steps were tough enough, but then it was a trudge between fields and a stony path, uphill all the way.

 

 

Of course the views got better and better as we got higher and higher, but my legs were really struggling and I was frustrated at my lack of fitness. I did keep the faith that once I got into my stride I'd be fine, and that this uphill start would surely be testing for most.

Things were about to get rather more challenging however, as we found ourselves slipping and sliding through mud. Glaur. Clatch.

 

 

It was a bit like trying to climb up a sand dune in walking boots - tough going, tiring, and with the added concentration of not wanting to slip and fall in the mud.

We trudged on until we finally reached the col between Eildon Hill North and Mid Hill. Dave and I have fond memories of a stroll up Eildon North three and a half years ago - fond, until we recall being attacked by flying ants! We decided to stick to the path rather than detour up Mid Hill, and soon the route began to drop downhill. In the distance we spotted Smailholm Tower, and Penial Heugh (the Waterloo Monument) where we were headed.

 

 

A lovely wooded section followed, the first of many on this stage, and soon we descended into the hamlet of Bowden.

Bowden well

 

A pleasant stroll then led us to the bright lights of Newtown St Boswells, and we walked past a lovely cottage which just so happened to be the very first house we considered last summer at the start of our house-hunting adventure!

 

The path led us up to a viewpoint we'd been to on the Borders Abbeys Way between St Boswells and Melrose, and our first proper view of the Tweed.

 

We retraced the steps we'd taken in April 2012, through delightful St Boswells, past the Golf Club and alongside the course. Only two golfers were out on the wee 9-holer, despite it being such a lovely day.

The next part of the trail alongside the Tweed was also familiar, until we reached the Mertoun Bridge. Here, the Borders Abbeys Way turns left to go across the bridge, then up to Clintmains. The St Cuthbert's Way continues on the other side of the bridge, with the Tweed still on our left.

 

 

 

 

It was here we met a lovely chap from London, now living in Kelso, who was keen to pass the time of day with us and shook our hands before we left. We started out talking about the weather, as we'd had our first random hail shower of the day, and ended up talking about the beautiful Borders.

From there we continued a bit further downstream, and had our packed lunch.

We knew from the notes we had that soon after this, on the way to Maxton, we'd pass Crystal Well, an antique water-pumping station built in the 1800s for Benrig House. I didn't think it would be such an impressive sight, and we stopped for a wee drink.

 

A rather up-and-down section with more steps led us eventually to Maxton, and its delightful church.

A wee bit of road walking followed, until we reached Dere Street. From our map, we now just had to walk in a straight line all the way to Harestanes. Dere Street is extremely straight indeed, although the St Cuthbert's Way path does weave a bit, and there are numerous stiles to be conquered. At this point we had been walking for over 5 hours, and each stile was a real challenge. We were starting to get quite weary, and not even this horse lifted our spirits - he wasn't exactly happy that we had no food for him!

 

The wildlife continued as we reached another wooded area, this time scaring some sheep who just couldn't figure out how to get out the way.

I got a second wind just after we passed the Lilliard Stone - mostly because I realised we were closer to Harestanes than I thought we were!

 

I actually quite enjoyed this section of Dere Street, from the Lilliard Stone onwards. Views ahead and behind were of a long straight path stretching as far as the eye could see. Soon the Waterloo Monument appeared, and we knew we were close to our destination.

 

 

 

Just one more wooded section to go, and soon we were approaching Harestanes. We were now past the six hour mark, and when we reached the Visitor Centre we'd been walking for 6 hours and 20 minutes - and were feeling it! My hips were sore (probably from walking hen-toed!) and my legs were tired, but I felt the elation of completing this challenging first stage of the St Cuthbert's Way.

Harestanes

Mum, Dad and Robbie met us at Harestanes and took us back to Stow, bringing our dinner with them! Andy joined us, and Dave and I hit the wall soon after food.

I felt a bit like this:

Now I can't wait to get out on the next stage of the St Cuthbert's Way from Harestanes to Kirk Yetholm. I look forward to the next challenges that the trail will bring. It's a joy to walk through the wonderful Scottish Borders - an area that has so much to offer, and so much untapped beauty.

I also have an idea in my mind of my next long-distance trail that I'll walk in full. A little bit of planning is required, but I am a planner so this suits me just fine :)

I feel a bit sore today but mostly just tired - it has been raining most of the afternoon so it's nice to know we made the most of the weather window this weekend offered.

I have so many moments of anxiety in my day-to-day life and walks like this work wonders for me. The confidence I can take just completing a walk like yesterday knows no bounds. It may seem like a small thing to many people, but for me it helps so much. The fresh air and the clarity of thought offered by walking is addictive. My feet itch for so much more...